siUlec, welcome to your new home

Welcome to siUlec, semoga betah menghuni carport di Cinere, jangan pake acara rebutan en brantem yaa ama sodara nya siUweq. Kapan2x kita nengokin bigBrother siBlueweq yang lagi "bertapa" di ARTOtotechnics

mBongkar kunci kontak Uno 2

Jum'at malem mbongkar2x kunci kontak siUweq yang dah lama bermasalah.
setelah lama hunting switch/saklar yang cocok sama rumah kunci kontak Sisef, akhirnya nyerah juga dah, beli baru satu set merk Magneti Marelli.
Tadinya rada males juga soalnya takut punya dua anak kunci (satu buat buka pintu en isi bensin, satu lagi buat kunci kontak), tapi pas di perhatikan dengan seksama, kayaknya bisa di 'pindahin' isinya
proses dimulai dengan mengeluarkan "isi" kedua kunci kontak dan di lihat beneran sama apa nggak ukuran nya
Alhamdulillah, ternyata sama euy......
yo wis dilanjut dah peroses migrasinya sampe akhirnya punya kombinasi Bonggol Kunci Marelli (baru) beranak kunci Sisef dan Bonggol Kunci Sisef (lama) beranak kunci Marelli :-)

Mudik yuk mudik

weekend ini beberes siUweq buat persiapan mudikganti shockbreaker yang dah ko'it pake WA-MGT (thanks buat Oom MGT), pasang dop "Fiat" ama beberes audio (buat iseng kalo lagi kena macet)abis itu di cuci trus poto2x dah

rencananya sich mau lebaran en sholat ied di halim dulu, dari situ baru dech konvoi sama Kijang iniOpa buat meluncur ke Bandung en Tasik

Dinamo oooh Dinamo.......

Hari Sabtu pagi (23/08/08) dah rada curiga sama siUwek, bunyi starternya tambah kasar aja, padahal dah di bikinin dudukan baru en abis di kencengin. Pas mo pulang dr gd BPPT Thamrin dah tambah kasar aja bunyinya, sampe akhirnya di nyalain manual (didorong), dari situ langsung aja meluncur ke RM (Sawah besar) buat beli Dinamo Starter
Pas dibuka ternyata dinamonya dah pecah(retak), pantes kagak nyala2x


mumpung di RM belanja yang laen dah (Disc-brake brembo, DiskPad MM, busi MM en kabel remtangan)


Hari Hari Minggu nya beberes kabel di engine bay, sekalian ganti relay lampu yang ko'it iseng2x ukur Dinamo Ampere ealah kok malah jadi ketauan ngisinya dah nggak beres, idle nggak nyampe 13V (diukur pake multitester analog), A/C en lampu gede di nyalain arus tinggal 12V begitu Radiator Fan muter malah ngedrop ke 11V, akhirnya mampir ke Galeri Motor di Pd Cabe, ganti sama Alternator Jepun 80A

Kaki2x mobil

Diambil dari website nya monroe, lumayan buat baca2x

Jenis2x pegas (per)

Suspensi bagian DepanSuspensi bagian belakang

Shockbreaker Cartridge

Lagi liat2x Tabloid Otomotif lama ehhh nemu artikel ini
kayaknya cucok buat diaplikasikan ke siUweq, berhubung dah mulai "meler" shock depan kirinya gara2x Jl Krukut yang lebih cucok jadi trek Offroad.
kalo dikembangin lagi jadi model coil-over lebih sip lagi kayaknya :-)
untuk lihat ukuran besar nya silahkan Click disini

Intermitten wiper

The intermittent wiper circuit shown above causes the auto's windshield wipers to wipe once every several seconds instead of constantly wiping. The circuit may be added to older cars to provide the intermittent function or it may be used to replace broken wiper circuits in modern cars. The delay is continuously adjustable with the potentiometer but switch selected fixed resistors may also be used, if desired. The circuit should be connected to +12 volts at the same point as the original wiper power switch so that the proper fuse protection is preserved. The 12 volt relay should have contacts rated for a few amps since the wiper motor will draw a considerable start current but most automotive relays are adequate. The circuit should be quite trouble-free and will work on the first try if no wiring errors are made!

ceritanya ada yg ngambek

Hari ini ada yg ngambek, gara2x diajakin nengokin 'ade' nya yang lagi didandanin.
Dari rumah biasa aja nggak ada firasat apa2x, baru jalan kira2x 3km dah minta pulang.
dibujuk2x cuman mau jalan 500m an trus ngambek lagi, akhirnya pas dibilang mau pulang aja, baru dah dia mau bergerak.
Thanks to tante Ifke & Oom Hendry en abang2x tk Accu yang dah nge bantuin ngebujuk (baca: nge jumper) si Blueweq.
Diagnosa sementara, pengapian kagak beres (ngambek 1) plus saringan bensin depan belakang mampet (yang ke2x nya).
{sent via e70}

Modal ngoprek

Selain cab set (paking, karet2x dll) ini yang jadi modal buat ngoprek karbu Aisan 10B nya si Blueweq :-)

Rangkaian CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition Circuit)

Nah....
kalo yang ini rangkaian CDI nya neeh


Taken from http://electronics4everyone.blogspot.com/search/label/Ignition%20Circuit

The CDI ignition circuit produces a spark from an ignition coil by discharging a capacitor across the primary of the coil. A 2uF capacitor is charged to about 340 volts and the discharge is controlled by an SCR. A Schmitt trigger oscillator (74C14) and MOSFET (IRF510) are used to drive the low voltage side of a small (120/12 volt) power transformer and a voltage doubler arrangement is used on the high voltage side to increase the capacitor voltage to about 340 volts. A similar Schmitt trigger oscillator is used to trigger the SCR about 4 times per second. The power supply is gated off during the discharge time so that the SCR will stop conducting and return to it's blocking state. The diode connected from the 3904 to pin 9 of the 74C14 causes the power supply oscillator to stop during discharge time. The circuit draws only about 200 milliamps from a 12 volt source and delivers almost twice the normal energy of a conventional ignition circuit. High voltage from the coil is about 10KV using a 3/8 inch spark gap at normal air temperature and pressure. Spark rate can be increased to possibly 10 Hertz without losing much spark intensity, but is limited by the low frequency power transformer and duty cycle of the oscillator. For faster spark rates, a higher frequency and lower impedance supply would be required. Note that the ignition coil is not grounded and presents a shock hazard on all of it's terminals. Use CAUTION when operating the circuit. An alternate method of connecting the coil is to ground the (-) terminal and relocate the capacitor between the cathode of the rectifier diode and the positive coil terminal. The SCR is then placed between ground and the +340 volt side of the capacitor. This reduces the shock hazard and is the usual configuration in automotive applications.